Saturday, 4.40pm, a high-street shop on Oxford Street. Hattie, 27, a paralegal, is holding a pair of white cotton bloomer shorts at arm's length. Lace trim — "new season" tag still looped through the belt carrier. The changing room smells of fresh cotton and someone's reed diffuser, and the curtain doesn't quite close (it never quite closes). On her phone there's a screenshot she saved back in September. A Chloé model, embroidered blouse and matching pantaloons — cinched at the ankle with a drawstring. Six months on, the pantaloons have become shorts and the price tag has nothing in common with the runway one. Which leaves Hattie with THE question: free-spirited 1970s heroine, or woman who nipped out in her pyjamas?
That's the time lag of every spring. What's on the rails at the end of March walked the runways of New York, London, Milan and Paris between September and early October 2024. Four weeks of shows — after which the Guardian pointed out that the collections wouldn't reach the shops until spring. Most pieces, the paper added, carried a four-figure price tag. In the meantime, the high street has had six months to translate. This season report works backwards. For each of the ten pieces that matter this season, I'll tell you which show it came from and what was on the catwalk. Then which version you can wear — without looking like you're in costume.
The general method (how to read any runway, any season) lives in my guide to adapting runway trends for everyday life. This one is dated, specific, and only valid for this season.
From September catwalk to March changing room: why it takes six months
A spring/summer collection is shown the autumn before. It sounds absurd the first time you hear it, but it's how the whole system works: the houses present, the buyers order, the factories produce — and the clothes land just as the season finally starts. For spring/summer 2025, the circuit kicked off with Ralph Lauren in the Hamptons and wrapped up with Kylie Jenner closing the Coperni show… at Disneyland Paris. Yes, really.
I watch these shows the way most of us do — livestreamed, from my sofa in Hackney. A cup of tea goes cold next to the laptop. Never from the front row — and honestly, for this kind of job, that's almost an advantage. You see every look in full, you can rewind, and you're not dazzled by who's sitting where.
If the fashion week calendar is still a bit of a blur (why four cities, why "spring" in September, who gets to show in Paris), it's all in my fashion week guide for non-insiders. The main thing to remember: a trend only counts if it turns up at several houses, then makes it past the buyers. That's my first filter.
The second filter is more personal. Every piece on this list had to exist in a wearable version — something you can wear to work, to dinner or on a train without spending the day explaining your outfit. The result: ten pieces, one of which I'd frankly steer you away from (you'll spot it).
1 and 2. The boho dress and the bloomers: Chloé's season
Chloé set the tone for the whole of spring. Chemena Kamali is, in the words of the Guardian's review of the show, "the second coming of boho". Yet she was an unknown name when she arrived as creative director a year earlier. For her second collection, she doubled down. White tailoring over gauzy camisoles, cork wedge sandals — and rose prints revived from a 1977 Chloé collection by Karl Lagerfeld. They turned up on floaty dresses and swimsuits. She prefers to call it the spirit of the 70s — and resists the label: "It gets labelled, but it's not a trend, it's a state of mind".
The detail I loved: the puff-sleeved blouse, a Chloé house icon, built out into a swingy spring jacket. The house isn't inventing a boho past — it's digging up its own.
The boho dress, piece number 1
Long, floaty, lace or embroidery, in faded sun-bleached tones — the boho dress is the easiest piece to find: you've probably already clocked ten versions in shop windows since the start of March. According to the Guardian, the front row was packed with floor-grazing Chloé trousers, heeled knee-high boots and tinted sunglasses, so the look was already out in the world — before the new collection even hit the runway.
The trap is the full look. Lace dress, crochet cardigan, wedges, fringed bag, straw hat: at that point it's not an outfit, it's a festival costume. The wearable version comes down to one simple rule — one boho piece, one sharp piece.
The bloomers, piece number 2
This is where things get braver. British Vogue broke down the pantaloons from the show. The opening look paired a sheer embroidered white blouse with matching pantaloons — drawstring at the waist and at the ankle. Then came cotton voile versions with lace insets, cropped at the knee, silk ones with lace edges, and even tiny bloomer shorts. Lagerfeld, Chloé's creative director at the time, was already showing cotton poplin pantaloons in 1976.
Let's be honest: the full-length version belongs on a catwalk rather than on the Central line at 8.30am. Even the Guardian admitted it: "It would be a stretch to suggest that mousseline bloomers, as seen in this show, are clothes for real life". The translation, though, exists — and it's exactly what Hattie was holding in that changing room. Gathered cotton bloomer shorts, sometimes with a lace trim. With a long men's shirt over the top, or under a blazer, they become proper summer clothes.
3. The sheer dress: the runway says yes, your office says maybe
Sheer isn't new. What's changed this season is the sheer quantity (sorry). British Vogue asked whether we've had enough abs for one decade. The answer, it noted, was "a resounding 'no!' on the spring/summer 2025 runways". London Fashion Week, the magazine added, was one of the sexiest in recent memory, thanks to Nensi Dojaka's comeback with Calvin Klein, the hotpants at 16Arlington — and Simone Rocha's angelic-with-a-twist world.
Sheer after dark, over black underwear, is the easy part. And the rest of the time?
The rest of the time, sheer works as a layer rather than as the headline. A tulle or organza skirt over a slip, a voile shirt over a vest, a mesh top under a jacket. Skin is hinted at rather than on display, and it works just as well on a Tuesday morning as on a Saturday night.
My favourite fix for a sheer skirt is black semi-opaque tights underneath — 40 or 60 denier, my forever duo. I go into it in my guide to wearing tights with style all year round. The tulle keeps its movement, and you keep your peace of mind.
4. The anorak over a party dress: Prada and Burberry's unlikely match
This is my favourite piece of the season, because it costs nothing. In Milan, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons put a yellow rain mac over a silver cocktail dress; at Burberry in London, Daniel Lee threw fuzzy hooded parkas over glittery party dresses. The Guardian's verdict was delightfully practical: "it's the perfect combo for a rainy British summer night". The paper even told anyone lucky enough to have nabbed Oasis tickets for 2025 to take note.
Why does it work? Because it's exactly what you already do (admit it) when it's chucking it down on the night of a party. Except this time, you don't stuff the anorak into the cloakroom when you arrive — you keep it on, and it makes the outfit. The clash between technical and precious is the whole point.
5. One-legged trousers: no (and what to keep from the idea)
Every list needs one mad piece (there's always one). Bottega Veneta, Coperni and Louis Vuitton all sent out trousers with a single leg — one covered, one bare. The Guardian asked whether this was the most impractical fashion trend ever. Its answer was perfect: "Where would you ever wear such a thing? Mostly on the catwalk". Citing Harper's Bazaar, the same piece suggests the first one-legged trousers may date back to the designer Sarah Aphrodite in 2018.
My verdict? No. Not for you, not for me, not for a summer of cycling to work and standing on packed trains. One-legged trousers are a runway idea — they exist to get people talking, and on that front they've succeeded brilliantly.
And yet I'd keep something from the idea: asymmetry. A pair of wide trousers with a deep side split, or a wrap skirt that falls open as you walk, gives you the flash of leg — and nobody asks what happened to the other half of your trousers.
6. The supersized suit: Saint Laurent goes big
At Saint Laurent, the tailoring went supersized. The Guardian summed up the message in its round-up of the shows — "next season will be all about the supersized suit". It's also the most useful piece on this list (by a mile). A good, roomy blazer goes over jeans, over a boho dress (piece number 1, keep up) or over bloomer shorts (piece number 2). At the weekend, with a white T-shirt. You'll still be wearing it long after summer 2025.
The wearable version lives in the menswear section — or the charity shop. The Guardian's advice was to hunt down an XL blazer in the menswear rail of your local charity shop, wear it over a striped shirt with the sleeves pushed up — then add giant gold bangles. I'm in. A well-cut wool men's blazer, sharp at the shoulders, often beats a brand-new "oversized" one cut to merely look big.
7. Ribbon flats, and their sporty cousin the sneakerina
On footwear, British Vogue put it neatly. In its balletcore report, the magazine wrote that "there's more grit to Swan Lake chic this time around". Ballet references were all over the spring/summer 2025 runways — Simone Rocha's pink-washed tulle in London, for one. At Ferragamo, Maximilian Davis sent out flip-flop heels with satin straps snaking up the ankles — the ribbon is the runway idea; the flat you can actually walk in is the wearable version.
Think of it as the ballet flat that grew up (and found its confidence): a flat shoe with fine ribbons tied above the ankle, in a neutral colour (nude, black, chocolate) — wear it with straight-leg jeans or a midi skirt. The ribbon alone signals the trend.
And if ribbons already sound like hard work, there's the sporty cousin: the sneakerina, half ballet flat, half trainer. The Guardian reported in February that a £730 suede version from Miu Miu had sold out. So had a £75 satin one from Charles & Keith. Same trend, nearly ten times cheaper. The paper also credits Simone Rocha as one of the first to experiment with the hybrid, with her "ballet tracker" shoes back in 2020.
8. The belted bag: the accessory that goes with everything
If you only take one accessory from this season, make it this one. In its report on the key spring/summer 2025 bag trends, British Vogue notes that Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons brought back the belt bag. This time it came with a studded belt closure — and similar styles turned up at Proenza Schouler, Toteme, Ferragamo and Hermès. The same round-up points out that practicality reigned across the shows: capacious totes took over from mini bags, several with belted detailing.
The belted bag has one huge advantage: it asks nothing of you style-wise. It goes with everything you already own, it gives a January outfit a new-season feel, and there are versions at every price point. Check the buckle (solid metal rather than plating that chips), the strap (functional or purely decorative) and the size. A belted tote earns its keep far more than a tiny clutch. Before buying, try the DIY version: thread a slim leather belt around your favourite tote, buckle at the front. Still loving it after a week? The trend is for you. Taken it off after two days? You've just saved yourself a bag.
9 and 10. Butter yellow and chocolate brown: the two colours of spring
Two colours come out of this season, and they get on beautifully (far better than pink and red, if you ask me). The first is a pale, creamy yellow; the second, a warm brown that works as the new black. Put them together and you have a spring palette that suits almost everyone.
Butter yellow, piece number 9
British Vogue has crowned butter yellow the colour of spring 2025. In its words, "creamy yellow was spread across the spring/summer 2025 collections". The shades ran from a light Lurpak to something more golden — less sugary than the usual spring pastels, and "positioned as an indulgent neutral". Toteme, the leaders of minimalism, peppered its monochrome collection with scarf dresses, blouses and shawls in a pale yellow close to vanilla; 16Arlington did jeans, jacket, clutch and even a bra in the same shade. And Chloé, Chanel and Toteme all sent out wafting yellow midis and maxis.
Lots of us assume yellow doesn't suit us. This one is different (and that's precisely why it works): it behaves like a slightly brighter beige. A shirt, a fine knit or a midi dress in butter yellow with off-white, camel or light denim, and you're done.
Chocolate brown (and suede), piece number 10
Brown quietly ran through the season. At Max Mara, the Guardian singled out the sharp shoulder of a tailored, chocolate-brown coat. In British Vogue's bag report, suede was everywhere — toffee-hued horsebit bags at Miu Miu, curvy versions at Stella McCartney, and then there was Jonathan Anderson's new Loafer bag, named for its likeness to the penny shoe.
Chocolate brown slips into your wardrobe without any effort, because it replaces black without changing your habits. A chocolate trench, wide brown trousers, a suede bag: that's your spring outfit sorted. Personally, I'm digging out a chocolate suede jacket I found in a Hackney charity shop last winter. It has never felt more "in season".
One piece, not ten: my method for choosing
Ten pieces isn't a shopping list. It's a menu. And the golden rule is the same as in a restaurant: you don't order everything.
Here's how I sort through it every spring. First, I look at what I already own. A piece that works with at least three things in my wardrobe gets through the first round; one that needs new trousers, shoes and a bag to "work" is out. Next, I ask myself whether I'll still be wearing it in September. The roomy blazer, the brown, the belted bag: yes, no question. The bloomers: maybe. One-legged trousers: you know my answer.
Finally, I check whether the trend already exists second-hand. It often does for colours and cuts that come back round (suede, men's blazers, embroidered blouses) — and a charity shop or Vinted find has something a brand-new piece never does: nobody else will have the same one.
If you only buy one thing this spring, make it a colour piece (butter yellow or chocolate) in a cut you already wear. Still you, just the spring 2025 edition.
Hattie, for the record, kept the bloomer shorts (you saw that coming). With a men's shirt over the top and her everyday loafers. Try the same with your own piece: just one, worn with what you already own, for a whole day. If you forget you're wearing it, you've nailed it.
Frequently asked questions
When do the spring/summer 2025 collections arrive in the shops?
Designer collections, shown in September and early October 2024, arrive in stores in spring 2025. High-street brands release their own interpretations as their spring ranges drop. That's why embroidered blouses and butter yellow are taking over the rails right now.
Why are spring/summer shows held in September?
Because houses need to show their collections to buyers and press well ahead of the season, so orders can be placed and the pieces produced. The September show is both a spectacle and a catalogue for the trade. The full calendar (New York, London, Milan, Paris) is explained in my fashion week guide for non-insiders.
What is the colour of spring/summer 2025?
Two colours stand out. Butter yellow — a very soft pastel close to cream, which British Vogue describes as an indulgent neutral — and warm browns, from chocolate to toffee, especially in suede. Both are easy to wear because they behave like neutrals.
How do I wear boho without looking like I'm in fancy dress?
One boho piece per outfit, paired with something sharp: lace dress and straight blazer, embroidered blouse and dark jeans, ruffled skirt and white T-shirt. Avoid piling fringing, crochet and a straw hat into the same look.
Will one-legged trousers make it to the high street?
There's no guarantee — even the Guardian concluded that they'd mostly be worn on the catwalk. If you like the asymmetry, look for trousers with a side split or a wrap skirt instead: same idea, wearable version.
Which piece should I buy first if I can only choose one?
Something that will outlast the season. A roomy blazer (new or from the menswear rail of a charity shop), a belted bag, or a chocolate-brown piece in a cut you already wear. The most dramatic pieces (full-length bloomers, one-legged trousers) date much faster.
Do bloomers suit every body shape?
The short version (bloomer shorts) works on lots of figures. Just balance the volume — a fitted or tucked-in top and a slim shoe. The full-length voile version needs more height or a heel. Either way, choose a fabric with some structure (cotton, poplin) rather than something too flimsy.
Sources
- The Guardian — Charity shop suits, anoraks and DIY pom poms: eight easy wardrobe updates inspired by the catwalks (3 October 2024)
- The Guardian — 'Spirit of the 70s': Chloé designer embodies second coming of boho (26 September 2024)
- British Vogue — In Full Bloom: At Chloé, Pantaloons Are Spring's Big Thing (27 September 2024)
- The Guardian — Prada and Max Mara bring strangeness and science to Milan fashion week (19 September 2024)
- The Guardian — One-legged trousers: is this the most impractical fashion trend ever? (16 October 2024)
- British Vogue — The Naked Dressing Trend Has Surely Reached Its Apex This Time (21 October 2024)
- British Vogue — How To Wear The New Balletcore Trend And Stay En Pointe (24 October 2024)
- British Vogue — The Key Spring/Summer 2025 Bag Trends To Know Now (updated 9 February 2025)
- The Guardian — The sneakerina: must-have item or step too far for hybrid fashion? (9 February 2025)
- British Vogue — Butter Yellow Is Officially The Colour Of Spring 2025 (14 March 2025)