Niacinamide, Vitamin C, BHA: Decoding Active Skincare Ingredients
I opened my bathroom cabinet and counted 14 serums. Then I realised I had absolutely no idea which ones I could layer together. Here's everything I actually learned.

Mineral or chemical, a sunscreen filter can't be judged by the word "mineral" or by WhatsApp rumours: the ingredients list, UK and EU restrictions, absorption, sensitive skin, white cast and what ends up in the water.
Read more →
I opened my bathroom cabinet and counted 14 serums. Then I realised I had absolutely no idea which ones I could layer together. Here's everything I actually learned.
The first time I used retinol, I looked like a crying lobster by Monday morning. Since then, I've learned. This guide covers everything I wish I'd known: concentrations, progressive introduction, combinations to avoid, and the best UK products by budget.
I nodded along to the beauty counter assistant listing 'low molecular weight, cross-linked, encapsulated HA' as if I understood every word — then bought the £58 serum. Three weeks later: identical skin. This is the guide I wish I'd read first.
Retinol, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, bakuchiol — you read these words on every label, but do you actually know what they do? At Mademoiselle Bulle, Kristina plays translator between the INCI list on your products and your skin. Every ingredient is decoded: what it promises, what it actually delivers, at what concentration it works, and what you should never mix it with.
Transparency matters: according to a Mintel UK survey, only 29% of British women say they understand the ingredients in their skincare products. That means seven in ten are applying products without knowing what's going on their face. This is exactly the gap we're closing, article by article.
AHA vs. BHA, stable vs. unstable vitamin C, copper peptides, centella asiatica — we're not doing chemistry for the fun of it. We explain what to use for your skin type, in what order, and — critically — what's science versus marketing storytelling. Because a serum "enriched with 24-carat gold" looks lovely on the label, but your skin couldn't care less.
Sources: Mintel UK, CosIng (EU cosmetic ingredients database), Paula's Choice Ingredient Dictionary
Mineral or chemical, a sunscreen filter can't be judged by the word "mineral" or by WhatsApp rumours: the ingredients list, UK and EU restrictions, absorption, sensitive skin, white cast and what ends up in the water.
Read more →
I opened my bathroom cabinet and counted 14 serums. Then I realised I had absolutely no idea which ones I could layer together. Here's everything I actually learned.
Read more →
The first time I used retinol, I looked like a crying lobster by Monday morning. Since then, I've learned. This guide covers everything I wish I'd known: concentrations, progressive introduction, combinations to avoid, and the best UK products by budget.
Read more →
I nodded along to the beauty counter assistant listing 'low molecular weight, cross-linked, encapsulated HA' as if I understood every word — then bought the £58 serum. Three weeks later: identical skin. This is the guide I wish I'd read first.
Read more →